At St. Andrews, close to the Maine border,
we booked a whale watching trip on the tall sailing ship Cory. We only saw two
whales. Just as it happened, son Corey was in Seattle at the time, to speak at
a Photographer's Convention, and looked out to sea and saw a whale. Now, how
would I say this: We saw a whale on the east coast from the Cory, while Corey
saw a whale on the west coast. Did you follow me on that?
As it turned out, the crew of the Cory was
as interesting as the whales. The deck hand was a tall, slim woman. Barefooted,
she climbed like a cat to the top of the mast and handled those sails and ropes
like the professional she is. She climbed all the way to the top, carrying our
camera, just to take our picture. Her face was very weather beaten, the effects
of hundreds of voyages. She is an illustrator in the winter, and in summer, she
makes three trips a day, seven days a week, May-September. The Captain built
the ship himself in New Zealand, and sailed it around the world in six years. But
those two don't even come close to being the most interesting of the crew.
“Bear” Ledger is an Acadian folklorist, a story teller, and a musician. He
tells his folklore in poem and in song. He plays the accordion, bagpipes, and
fiddle on ship, and plays eight other instruments. He just starts doing his
thing, on deck, whether anyone is around or not. But we are all soon there,
listening. His dream is to travel to Louisiana, to visit his cousins, the
Cajuns, and compare his folklore to theirs.
We went through
Passamaguoddy Bay, through the Bay of Fundy. We passed Rosevelt's cottage,
where he used to take his mistress, or so we were told. A small rocky island appeared to have a snow
covering. But it was bird waste, from the thousands of birds who made it home.
The Bay of Fundy is a major natural reserve of life.
Barbara was recruited as Captain, for a
time, and got to sail the ship. She asked about the life jackets. The captain
told her, “This is the North Sea. If you fall overboard, you'll be dead in three
minutes. You don't need a life jacket.”
I was recruited to haul in the jib sails at the end of the trip. Now,
where's the fairness in that? Barbara's steering the ship, I'm wadding up
sails. But, the Captain seemed to enjoy her company more that mine. Can't say I
blame him. Barbara's a fun girl.
A friend of mine from McCrory, where we
lived for a time, was a saturation diver in the North Sea for an oil company. A
French company nearby averaged losing a diver a day, for a time. A dangerous
job, but it pays well. He was all about danger. He came to McCrory and began
piloting a helicopter spraying crops. He clipped the tail rotor off once on a
power line. Without a tail rotor, a helicopter just goes round and round in the
direction the blade is turning until it crashes. He broke his leg. The upside
was, I could always beat him at tennis while he wore a boot.
The Bay of Fundy was one of the great
natural wonders we experienced. If you ever go to Maine, go up just a little
farther and book a trip on the tall sailing ship Cory. It's a great experience.
We explored New York for a few days, but you have all done that, so I’ll just
jump on past to the Amish Country.
At Starlight camp, we were on top of a
mountain overlooking the Amish country. Farms seem to have 20 or 30 acres.
Dozens of giant hot air balloons were taking off at daylight. They make good
use of their land. We went to an Amish Farmer's Market the next day. Shoofly
Pie, fresh squeezed apple juice. Barbara was about to take a picture of two
Amish men, playing checkers. They waved it off, no pictures. They were making a
living off the tourists, and I thought that was a little odd. We overate
chocolate at Hershey. Horse and buggy rigs were just everywhere. The simple
life has it's attraction, taking life directly from the land. Many of their
harvesting devices were familiar, from Wing, many years ago.
We moved to Gettysburg, and toured the
battle site. So much pain and death on these fields. The last man to fall on
Pickett's charge fell right here, by these bushes. We left out on a dreary
morning, somehow appropriate. Past a statue of an officer on his horse at the
crest of a hill, past thousands of crosses standing in straight rows. We don't
want to glorify war, but we must pay tribute to these brave men. We were glad
we saw it, even more glad when we left.
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