In August of 2006, I
was walking out from fishing my favorite hole on the Fourche River, and a very
large woodpecker flew from a dead snag that had a large hole in it, near the
top. I was struck by the bird's size, and its markings.
The Ivory Billed Woodpecker had been
considered extinct for 50+ years. It is similar in size and appearance to a
Pileated Woodpecker. The Ivory Billed Woodpecker is slightly larger, it's back
is solid white, while a Pileated is dark on top with white feathers below. When
this bird flew from me, it looked white
on top of it's back, and larger than any Pileated woodpecker I had ever seen.
Barbara and I flew out for six weeks of
wandering Europe aimlessly a day or so later, but I spent a lot of time, while
there, thinking about that bird. I also spent a lot of time hobbling on my bum
knee from wading that river so much. This was just after an Ivory Billed
Woodpecker had, in many people's mind,
been spotted in eastern Arkansas. Positive ID never happened in eastern
Arkansas, despite a long hard search by many scientists.
When we returned, there was a break
between deer seasons that fall. The deer have returned to the valley in large
numbers now. I knew deer season was
about the only time anyone else ever went into that area and the split deer
season was now closed, so I would be alone.
I left home at two AM, and arrived in those woods just
before daylight. Immediately upon exiting my truck, I heard a drumming sound I
had listened to on old tapes of the Ivory Billed Woodpecker. "Bam, bam,
bam, -- bam!" This was one identifying characteristic of that bird. The sound seemed to come from the old snag I
had seen before. It was immediately answered from the area of another large
hollow snag I knew about.
I waited until dawn broke, and, with my
camera ready, I eased toward that first snag. I began to hear woodpeckers
working toward me. Suddenly, a very large one flew into my vision. It was much
faster than I had ever seen a woodpecker fly before, flying more like a
duck. As it exited my vision, I could
hear it's wing noises, also a characteristic of the Ivory Billed Woodpecker.
"Whoosh, whoosh, whoosh!" It was at least one hundred fifty feet from
me, but the sounds were very distinct. It was still too early, and dark, for a
flying picture.
I quickly set up a blind at the large
snag, and I waited, camera ready. A Pileated Woodpecker flew in, stayed awhile,
then left. The sun was just beginning to peek over Fourche Mountain, which
arose sharply out of the far side of the river.
Then IT flew in, and changed my
thinking forever.
It landed on the snag. I was, I must
admit, too awestruck to even think about my camera. It was huge. The
description fit. It hitched it's neck, and turned it, looking behind. I was
later told by one expert on that bird that even an Ivory Billed Woodpecker
probably could not do that. But then, he had never seen a living Ivory Billed
Woodpecker, and this bird did that. As it walked out a limb, certain
distinguishing markings were very clear to me. Unfortunately, my forgotten
camera sat idle in my hands, and I just gawked.
A piliated woodpecker has a white line
running from it's head to it's wing, disappearing under its wing when the wings
are folded, as this one was. The Ivory Billed Woodpecker's white line goes up
onto the wing, and down the length of it.
This bird had that white line, the full length of the wing.
That marking was very clear to me. The
first rays of the morning sun spotlighted the bird as he reached the end of the
limb. My camera suddenly came awake, and I shot again and again. The bird flew.
Afterwords, I went over what I saw and
what I did not see in my mind carefully. The angle of my view was pretty
steep. I had no memory of seeing the
white shield on the back. I felt, at some point, though, I could have seen
that. But, it was not in my memory afterwords.
I
heard the "Bam, bam, bam, -- bam!" drumming sound, totally different
from the Pileated wood Pecker, three more times that morning. Then it was time
to go home. Deer season started up again the next day, and there would be
hunters swarming this area, so I stayed
away a few days.
I knew I would need all the help a great
lab could give me with those pictures. From our professional days, I knew just
the lab. I instructed them to "push" the film two stops. It was still
very early in the morning for a film camera.
I had no digital camera at that time. It was at about the time, 2006,
when digital was beginning to take over, film was about to become a thing of
the past.
It took several days, during which I knew
I had the first modern day photo of an Ivory Billed Woodpecker. I was torn.
Should I make it public, and risk an influx of people running the birds
off? Or should I keep their secret,
hopefully allowing them to make some sort of comeback in that very isolated
place? The habitat was great. The
Ouachita Mountains arose out of that river, with thousands of acres of pine
timber. Down river about a mile, there was a very large plot of beetle killed
pines, very attractive to large woodpeckers. They simply strip the dead bark
off the tree, and eat the beetles underneath. Hundreds of acres.
When the pictures arrived, I had the best
books I could find in hand, showing all the markings. But, after studying the
best photo, I knew it would not hold up. The bird had turned toward me, and the
wing markings were indistinct. The best photo was not totally sharp.
I was still torn. I knew what I knew, but
I had no real evidence. I decided to contact the man who was, it seemed,
considered to be the world's expert on that bird. I discussed my situation
several times with him, and I sent him
my picture. After studying it, he said he needed a video. One questionable
photo was not enough.
While I knew I was lacking in proof, I did
see that bird well, and there was not a bit of doubt in my mind. I bought a
good video camera, and went to work. I set up several blinds, some with bait
stations. About fifteen mornings that winter, I left home at two AM, arriving in the river bottoms at
daylight. But, to make a long story short, I never heard that particular
drumming sound again, though I saw many Pileated Woodpeckers, and never another sighting.
I downloaded the actual sounds of the Ivory Billed
Woodpecker, made over half a century
ago, and amplified and broadcast them out. The Blue Jays went crazy. Their
sound is similar. I videoed several birds responding to that call, but they all
turned out to be a dead end. One particular bird that responded seemed to sound
a little different. I only saw it through my video viewfinder, and my video only
showed a few flaps of its wings before it disappeared over the tree tops. Since
my only view was through the video view finder, I could tell little about the
real size of the bird. I could not stop the action at a point where I could see
markings that would tell me something. I
called the expert. I asked him, "If I send you a video I have, will
you call me back and give me an opinion?"
He replied, "I'd be glad to,
Pat." I sent it. A few hours later, I managed to stop the video at a
critical point. Markings showed. I knew it was not what I had hoped. I waited
to see if he was a man of his word. He never replied. Since he was not a man of
his word, even to give me a negative answer, that told me a lot about this
expert. That was our last communication.
What I saw, and heard, that one morning in
November just seemed to be there no longer.
The last morning I spent looking for the
Ivory Billed Woodpecker, the Corps of Engineers did a control burn on my plot,
and the fire ran me out. My blinds and bait stations were destroyed. I knew by
now the Corps of Engineers were curious about what I was doing there so often,
and a local farmer was also, seeing me drive by his house so often. He sent
word to me, "If there are Ivory Billed Woodpeckers down there, I'll shoot
every one of them." I sent word back, "If you can find one down
there, you're a better man than I am." I decided it was time to drop this
search, and let that totally isolated spot become isolated again.
I knew I could never convience anybody
else with my lack of evidence. But I know what I saw, that morning in November,
2006. And to my dying day, I will always remain convienced that the Ivory Bill
Woodpecker was alive and well in the Fourche River bottoms in 2006. Their
secret is safe. Maybe, that's as it should be. That was one difficult decision
I didn't have to make. Making such a claim as I have made here, without proof,
makes one seem to be somewhat of a kook, so I have since been hesitant to talk
about this, and I have told few people. I felt they may have raised young that
year in that hollow tree I saw the one in. But if so, they have moved on. I
pray they are making some sort of a comeback in those thousands of acres of the
Ouachita National forest near by. I won't bother them again. Years have
passed. I decided to tell it here.
The world needs to know.
Please do not ask for details about the
location. I will not tell. That area is totally isolated, with no good reason
for people to come in, except to deer hunt. It needs to stay that way.
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