As we traveled on
up the Autostrata, along the Italian Riveara, it ran along the mountainside
above the crowded coastline. Often as not, we were in a tunnel. We have decided
the Italians and the Norwegians are the world's leaders in tunnel building. But
the Norwegian engineer we talked to this year said they brought the Italians up to help with their twelve
mile long tunnel and the like, and they soon went home. The rocks were too hard
up there.
Bypassing Genoa,
we wound up on a major highway we thought was the Autostrata, but instead, it
led to the coast. All lanes dead ended in a giant ferry terminal – to Sardenia!
We had no visit planned there, but it was beginning to look like we would. It
was Sunday, and the traffic was not heavy, so we parked and I walked to find
help. I found a worker there, but he waved me off, would not even try to talk
to me. I knew sometimes they were more helpful if you could throw in an Italian
word or two, show that I was at least trying. So I went back to Barbara, and
she gave me some Italian words. I went back to him, started throwing them in,
but he just shook his head and walked off, saying in perfect English,
"We're all Italians down here." I was getting the picture by then. He
just didn't like anyone who was not Italian. I found a more friendly worker
who, through very halting English, finally directed us out.
Moving on down the
coast, we decided to travel the tiny road along the coast, winding through one
tiny village after another, and found a place to stay.
We needed to
change our departure date. We were getting tired, and running out of alotted money.
We found a
library, but they were very unfriendly, saying, "Not a tourist info!"
When we got across to them we just needed to use a computer, they became nicer
and helpful. Barbara quickly mastered that Italian language computer, something
I could just never have done. Left to my own devices, I would just have to live
out my life here, being the village idiot and begging for pizza scraps. She
managed to change the departure date, leaving out Spain altogether, and hanging
out a week in Paris.
To cut down on
what we had to carry home, Barbara planned on mailing packages occasionally.
Getting into a post office was like trying to get into Fort Knox. Bullet proof
glass between them and us at all times, bomb proof chambers for all packages
while they x-rayed them, long lines. When we finally got in front of an
official-looking lady, Barbara just had to comment, "Our post office at
home is just not like this!" The woman stuck a lecturing finger into the
air, and said, "And therein lies the problem!"
After buying a $4
coke in return for the opportunity to use the bathroom, we found lodging. Then
be bought train tickets for Monaco tomorrow. Had we gotten a glimpse into what
lay ahead, we probably would have just slept in that day.
The train gave us
a glimpse at the many congested little towns that lined the Riviera, finally
moving into France, then Monaco. We spent a good day touring. It was a fantastic
place, but not meant for pore' people like us. They were setting up the Grand
Prix along beside the water. Police were everywhere. One policeman for every
sixty residents. Barbara tried to get a picture of a grand car so exclusive
that we didn't even recognize the name, with me standing beside it at a car
dealership. Before I was anywhere near close enough to touch it, a man ran out,
screaming at us, and ran us off.
We caught our
train back toward our house and our car, smooth as silk. We're world travelers
now, and we know how to act the part. When it got to the border, it stopped. An
announcement that we couldn't understand was made, and people were starting to
get off. There was no train change on the way in, so we sat tight. After a few
minutes, we began to realize we were the only people left. That's a bad sign,
and just as that was sinking in, the train started back toward Monaco.
When we got there,
we ran back to the ticket agent, who spoke a little English. "You should
have changed trains at the border."
"Any more trains out today?"
"One is
leaving right now. You might catch it if you run. That's the last one."
We ran. I quickly
outdistanced Barbara. I was nearly there now. The train started to move. I was
even with the engineer, and I waved frantically. The train slowed, and a door
opened. Barbara was just now coming into sight, a long way back, huffing and
puffing. I put one foot on the train,
and kept one on the ground, and held my position. If they shut that door now,
they would have to squeeze me in it. Once we got on, we found a British couple,
who were going past our village, and stuck with them like glue. So much for
being big world travelers.
As we realized we
must be nearing our village, Barbara asked, "Now, what is the name of our
village?" I didn't have a clue. It was beginning to get dark now. We moved
close to the door, and strained to see something familiar. As the train slowed
for a village, Barbara screamed, "There's our car!" She bolted for
the door, ahead of me, and started pushing it open as soon as the train
stopped. But she was on the wrong side, and she was about to step out onto a
live track! Those trains run silently, are very fast, and are about a foot
apart. Stepping out on the wrong side could mean instant, silent death. Several
people tackled her, and pulled her back. Funny how we all remember things
differently. According to Barbara, when she started to open that door, she
realized her mistake, and closed it. Anyway, we were sure glad to see our cute
little red car. We almost hugged and kissed it.
The next day, we
backtracked through all those little towns we had came through last night on
the train, heading for France, and Avignon. It took a long time to get through
by car, with car and motorcycle congestion just almost unbelievable. If there
were toilets for all those people, we sure couldn't find them. The mountains
usually rose steeply to our right, and we worked out our own toilet system.
When we had a little scrap of flat land to the right, we pulled the car off the
road to the mountain side, opened front and back doors, and we had a toilet.
You just do what you have to do.
Italian drivers
are very aggressive. I just never knew when someone parked would just back
right out in front of me. And, if I was not aggressive right back, I might just
get crowded right off the road.
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