Saturday, November 26, 2011

New Zealand: Our Friend the Spy

      We boarded the ferry at 7 AM, sure enough, right under the big, blue, “Check-in” sign. It was a long voyage, hours. As always, Barb gathered crowds of New Zealanders around her, and we talked about lots of things, and learned much. We griped about their accents, they griped about ours. One man joked with Barbara for her pronunciation of “bird.” He tried to say it like her and drug out the word into “buuurd”. She asked him how he says it. “Beard,” he said. “Beard? That's not Bird. You're talking about hair on your face!” They roared. Another asked her, “Let me get this straight. If you are drinking water in the middle of the winter, would you still put ice in it? “Yes, of course.” “Why?” “That's just what we do.” That went back and forth a long time. They enjoyed our “Blue chicken” story. Barb's gift for gab is always a major asset to our travels. She will just not let anyone be reserved around her. Quickly, they will be laughing and talking like best friends. One New Zealand lady helped her with a crossword puzzle.
      But we have been warned. Our international spy friend we hung out with in Austria, a couple of years later, told Barbara when we parted, “You travel too lightly about the world. People will entrap you.” Surprisingly, he had judged us to be harmless, and he had just loosened up and told us all about his life as a “Citizen of the world,” especially about his adventures during the Gulf War. The US had recruited him, because he looked and spoke Arabic. He had demonstrated his ability to speak almost any language, complete with regional dialects. But he admitted, the most scared he had ever been was in America, when he and his buddies accidentally walked into the wrong neighborhood one night, while at the the Air Force Academy in Colorado Springs. Much more about him when I tell of our European adventures. Needless to say, when we parted, he strongly forbade pictures, no address or e-mail address. He said he would e-mail us. We're still waiting.
      We unloaded from the ferry at Wellington, the Capital, in a driving rain. We took in the Te Papa Museum, saw the Capital building, and as I hate strange city driving in the rain, we headed on up the island. We were getting into a very volcanic region. We drove for miles along a very large lake that we could barely see across, that was formed by a giant volcanic explosion. We knew this part of the country just had a very thin crust over unimaginable volcanic power potential. Just hope we get past it before it struts its stuff. We passed a bad but not fatal car wreck, and the country is so remote there it was 30 minutes before we met an ambulance coming to the scene. We almost passed a waterfall sign, but decided to go back and see it. We have came upon some amazing sights by accident in our travels, and this was no exception. Beautiful aqua blue water, covered with foam, poured over the huge cliff. The water came from the large volcanic lake we had been passing.
      After lunch we reached Rotoroua, listed in Fromer's travel book as one of the top ten cities in the world to see. All over town, large pits of boiling mud, water and steam were on the surface. Even on the golf course. Talk about playing the rough--- Most of the people had used the hot water to heat their houses, until it was recently curtailed. Well, as one would suspect, this town had tons of motels, etc. But, just our luck, again, this was their “Labor Day,” our third Labor Day we had experienced that year. No lodging was to be found. Barb picked out a nice looking lady manning the Visitor's Center, and gave her sob story, “Here we are, on our trip of a lifetime, and- “ I had heard this all before, but, once again, it worked. The lady looked us over a long time, and made a call. She had judged us to be “safe,” well dressed and clean, and obtained a home stay for us. I have to admit, if we had been dirty and looked like bums, that would never have happened. We might have had to sneak out on the golf course, and slept beside one of the boiling mud pits that night to stay warm. I guess, its just my lot in life, carrying half the clothes we own, around on my back, all over the world. Actually, they were in our car, but sometimes one just has to extrapolate a little in the interest of being interesting.
      Our home stay turned out to be with a very nice lady, five years a widow, in a very nice house. She gave us a key, turned the whole bottom floor over to us, and left for the rest of the day. The exchange rate was better in New Zealand than in Australia, and our $105 cost converted to about $70 US.
      We had a long visit with her that night, after a great supper. Her son had gone on “Walkabout” for a year, years ago, met a woman in Ireland, and never returned. Breakfast the next morning was no less good, and the coffee was almost too strong, even for Barbara. Barbara prides herself on being addiction free, but has walked miles before, early morning, to find a cup of coffee.

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